EPC day 11
Mar. 22nd, 2012 08:02 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
dagibbsI don't think I get along very well with "Mexico time". If we have a conversation about climbing together, and I say, "when should we meet", and you say, "10am", then wandering by the meeting point at 10:30 is a problem.
We did a long (by my standards, and by EPC standards) approach to a section, then only climbed one route there since we were baking in the sun by the time we got there. It was a pretty awesome route, though -- a hand-crack in the back of a dihedral. A lot of work, but at least partially because it is technique that I'm not very practised at, but should get better at.
There are, apparently, lots of characters down here. Dane and Ed, who both have guide books out apparently used to be good friends, but now are bitter enemies. People bolt routes near other routes, those people get upset, hike way up canyon to secret places to clean & bolt new routes, cause they don't want anyone doing a route near theirs. Another old lady is telling stories about a local strong climber's sister boyfriend getting shot by the cartel -- which never happened. I think it is an intersection of climber-crazy and Mexico-crazy, especially ex-pat Americans in Mexico-crazy, with all of those reinforcing each other.
Osito (5.9, maybe 5.9+), follow. Crack climbing -- my hands show witness to the hand-jams I did.
Cat Daddy (5.9) TR
Nasty Screwdriver (5.8) TR
We did a long (by my standards, and by EPC standards) approach to a section, then only climbed one route there since we were baking in the sun by the time we got there. It was a pretty awesome route, though -- a hand-crack in the back of a dihedral. A lot of work, but at least partially because it is technique that I'm not very practised at, but should get better at.
There are, apparently, lots of characters down here. Dane and Ed, who both have guide books out apparently used to be good friends, but now are bitter enemies. People bolt routes near other routes, those people get upset, hike way up canyon to secret places to clean & bolt new routes, cause they don't want anyone doing a route near theirs. Another old lady is telling stories about a local strong climber's sister boyfriend getting shot by the cartel -- which never happened. I think it is an intersection of climber-crazy and Mexico-crazy, especially ex-pat Americans in Mexico-crazy, with all of those reinforcing each other.
Osito (5.9, maybe 5.9+), follow. Crack climbing -- my hands show witness to the hand-jams I did.
Cat Daddy (5.9) TR
Nasty Screwdriver (5.8) TR
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Date: 2012-03-23 11:59 am (UTC)Any group of people who spend too much time together start having Teh Drama, it seems!
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Date: 2012-03-23 11:27 pm (UTC)