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At lunch today, a co-worker was talking about his life-drawing class the previous evening, and eventually mentioned that they had a very tall female model, 6'4". I, of course, asked, "was her name Allison". To my complete lack of surprise, the answer was "yes". Then, another co-worker, across the table says, "I know Allison, but didn't know she worked as a model."

Small world.
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The time, or weather has come: Board-games this Sunday (Oct 15)

Yes, I'm committing to the weather being awful, and people are invited over for board-games. Usual plan, start 1pm, break for dinner, continue into the evening.

RSVPs appreciated.
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Mostly because the forecast kept teasing with hope, then disappointing with actual rain. Every day. And, because of the hope, I didn't make other plans. Still, I managed to do a few non-climbing things.

Friday night I got to see Jex, who I hadn't seen since she got married. Unfortunately, it was a quiet visit in the dark because she had a nasty migraine. After our visit, I dropped by Eric's place for a board-game -- we hadn't done Friday games in a while, so that was nice.

Saturday I got to visit some with Cara who was staying with the weekend. Partially early am (2:30-4) and partially early afternoon. Then the rest of the afternoon was more boardgames with France.

Sunday was a lovely Thanksgiving Turkey feast prepared by Constance, where I also saw Mike, Suzanne, Louise (Mike's mom), and Jane. Yummy food and good company.

And, finally, today I had lunch with foms, con_girl and Kim. We tried the Yangtze, too much line, switched to the Chu Shing which also claimed a 20 minute wait, but was probably more like 5.

Also accomplished a bunch of laundry and a few other house-neatening type things.

Not the weekend I had hoped for or mostly planned, but a reasonably good one none-the-less.


A good day

Sep. 30th, 2017 10:23 pm
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Today was a good day!

I went climbing at Lac Sam with Simon and Helene, and we climbed at right wing, did the first (lead) ascents of two routes, one of which Simon bolted today. Simon got home slightly later than he was supposed to -- I hope he isn't in too much trouble for that. But if he'd just lead his route faster, it would have been fine. But he couldn't pull the crux. After teasing me for having trouble with it because I was old. Ha!

Then, I had a lovely evening with Helene -- dinner at the Chu Shing, then cuddling and talking in front of a fire. Yes, it is now fire season!
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Last weekend was a lovely summer weekend at the cottage. I know, I know, mid-September, it is now fall. But the weather didn't know that. Sunny, clear, mostly calm with highs both days in the mid-30s -- it felt like summer. And after a week+ of similar weather, the lake temperature felt like summer, too.

Sure, I did a bit of climbing on both Saturday and Sunday -- but it was a relaxed climbing agenda both days. With more important agendas of relaxing, swimming, canoeing, swimming, deep-water-solo, swimming, and probably some more swimming and relaxing. I don't expect September weekends to be climb-out-of-the-water-and-not-need-to-towel-off-it-is-so-warm weekends. It was lovely and relaxing.

Sadly, I had to come back to the city at the end of the weekend.
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I am headed home once again -- back to work tomorrow for a one-day work week, then off to Toronto for the weekend. I figured I didn't need to plan on climbing this weekend.

I'm at the airport early -- my flight isn't until 5:50pm -- but with the smoke in the air, there wasn't much point in stopping along the way for sight-seeing. The seeing just wasn't very good.

My climbing log for the week, almost all with Jenna:

Day 1, Wed Aug 30th, arrival day. Find AirBnB, check-in, then a late afternoon of climbing, also with Matt.

Murrin Park - Sugar Loaf. All trad leads:
Magnet - 5.4
Little Spark - 5.4 (was aiming for a 5.6, but chose the wrong line)
The Mechanic - 5.7
Lieback Crack - 5.7
Holiday in Cambodia - 5.8

Day 2.

Cheakamus Canyon, sport lead.
Star Chek - 5.8 (guide says 5.9, but it isn't. Did in 4 pitches instead of 3 with Jenna & Matt)

Smoke Bluffs - mostly trad lead
Easter Island - 5.8
Runestone Pinnacle Right - 5.8
Runestone Pinnacle Left - 5.8 TR
Grani - 5.8
Sigurd - 5.3 follow

Day 3

The Chief - Apron, all trad lead
Rambles - 5.8 (4 pitches, done as 2)
Diedre - 5.8 (6 pitches, lots of line-up)

Day 4

Shannon Falls, AMO Wall, sport lead
The Relish Route - 5.8 (3 pitches, followed P2 )
Ghille Suite - 5.9
The Beaten Zone - 5.9
Petra - 5.9 (couple lead falls)
Into the Mystic P1 - 5.6
Stranger than Friction P1 - 5.8

Murrin Park, The CommonWealth - trad mostly lead (with Jason)
Partners in Grime - 5.8
Tastes Like Chicken - 5.9
Otto Mattock - 5.6
The Total Stinkeye - 5.8 (follow)
Ancient Squamish Secret - 5.9
Hungry, Hungry Hippoes - 5.10a (follow)

Day 5

Cheakamus Canyon, Conroy's Castle - almost all sport lead
Emil and the Detectives - 5.8 (two pitches, followed pitch 2)
Charlotte's Web - 5.9 (two pitches)
A Child's Christmas in Wales - 5.4 (online guide says 5.6 - no way, followed)
Kingfishers Catch Fire - 5.8

Day 6

Murrin Park, various crags, mostly trad lead
Beginner's Luck - 5.6
Jugs Not Drugs - 5.8 (sport)
Up From the Bog - 5.8
Focus - 5.7
Stihl Cleaning - 5.8
Smells Like Fir - 5.8
Otto Mattock - 5.6 (follow)
Top Ramen - 5.7
50 Lashes With a Wet Noodle - 5.8+
All You Can Eat Pasta Buffet - 5.6

Day 7

Shannon Falls Wall - mostly trad lead
Klahani Crack - 5.7
Split Decision - 5.10a (TR)
Skywalker - 5.8 (5 pitches) - then hiked up to the pools on Shannon Falls

Day 8 (with Jason)

Cheakamus Canyon - Whiskeyjack Wall - all sport
Attitude is Everything - 5.8
Danielle's Throne - 5.10a
Plumber's Crack - 5.10c (TR, one fall)
Brock 'n' Roll - 5.10b (lead, one fall)
Angel on My Shoulder - 5.10b (lead, one fall)

All-in-all, 8 days in a row of climbing, and I'm still feeling pretty good.
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I climbed 14 pitches today -- 8 pitches of bolted slab in the morning, then 6 pitches of trad cracks in the afternoon. And all but 3 pitches were on lead.

Morning climbing tomorrow -- but for now, I am tired.


Sep. 1st, 2017 03:14 pm
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Cragging at Murrin Park afternoon/evening of arrival day.
Star Check with Matt & Jenna on Thursday, then some short climbs in Smoke Bluffs on Thurday.
Climbed The Apron on Friday -- Rambles then Diedre. Diedre is a classic, and it wouldn't surprise me if it is the most climbed route on The Chief.


Aug. 30th, 2017 07:10 am
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I am off to Squamish for a week of climbing. The weather should be dry -- but the forecast is for the temperature to rise to 38C by the end of my week there. I'm thinking morning/evening climbing, but not daytime! Also, the wind looks to be from the north-west/west/south-west over the week, so I should be able to breathe, too.


Aug. 28th, 2017 10:12 am
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It was a good weekend -- our accommodations in Val-David were adorable, and the attached restaurant was excellent. And, according to Kate, the three beers we tasted (our beds came with free tasting coupons) were all good -- the place is, also, a microbrewery.

The climbing was very good -- nice to spend a couple days entirely on cliffs where I haven't climbed before. Of course, that does mean more time spent staring at guide-books and cliffs, then back at guide-books, then back at cliffs trying to figure out where you are, or where the climbs you want are. And more wandering around not-climbing trying to find your climbs.


Aug. 26th, 2017 07:51 am
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I'm off to Val-David for a couple of days of climbing. Warm-up for Squamish, or something. :)
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I spent a couple weeks rock climbing about 5km from that mountain back in 2009.


Aug. 4th, 2017 08:04 am
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And homeward bound once again. And looking forward to a long weekend of wedding and climbing.

And home again -- travel went smoothly and well.


Jul. 30th, 2017 03:04 pm
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I'm off for another business trip, actually to Chelmsford, but by way of BOS, this time to Zoll. Their name sounds like they should be running an evil empire, but really they make medical devices.
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I headed down to the ACC Montreal section's hut near Keene, NY for a long weekend of climbing on Thursday evening with Jenna (my climbing partner), Felix, and Ellie. My primary goal was to do two ascents (by different routes) of Chapel Pond slab as practice Jenna and I to get more experience together on multi-pitch climbing before our attempt on The Chief in Squamish in about a month. We did succeed with this on Friday, though it was a warm day. Saturday we had an excellent day of cragging at the Beer Walls, where I red-pointed several routes including the brilliant Sword, which was most everybody's favourite pitch of the trip. I also managed to find a couple of quite nice cams that someone had left behind in the rock. Sunday we woke up to rain, so had a mellow day, with a bit of shopping in Keene, where I ended up buying a few more climbing guidebooks. The drive home went smoothly, and was quite relaxed as we ended up home around 4:30pm.

All in all, it was a good weekend.
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I think this was the first weekend this year that truly felt like summer -- hot and humid. It's felt, so far, like we've mostly had an extended rainy spring.

I climbed at Lac Sam on Saturday with a small crew, then had dinner with the family back in Ottawa -- my sister, brother-in-law and nieces (2) were in town for a 2 weeks (except BIL, only a week) and headed out this morning, so met up with them for the last dinner before they left.

Today we climbed at Mont Rigaud as it was the only area without a 70-80% POP starting in the afternoon. We did get a full day of good, but hot, climbing there.
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Ah, Ottawa. Welcomed home by a thunderstorm and drenched between the airport and my car.


Jul. 9th, 2017 03:06 pm
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I'm off to Boston, well, Peabody/Danvers, MA for the week. And, only a 1-hop flight this time, and planned that way, and a short one at that. Looks like a small plane, too -- 13 rows.
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The weather has been really iffy (cold and, especially wet) for a lot of the weekend days so far this year. So, despite the iffy forecast for today, I collect a few people (Ariella, Ingrid, and Martin) and headed out to Calabogie. It was cloudy and even rained a bit on us in the morning, and the hike-in was wet, and the rock was damp, though we found dry bits. But the clouds fled, and the sun came out, and we were graced by blue skies from mid-afternoon onward. And it was a good day of climbing.


Jun. 23rd, 2017 08:28 pm
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Home again, without any particular delays or problems. I think I get about 3 weeks in Ottawa this time.
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