Climbing today
Mar. 17th, 2010 10:38 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
dagibbsWent up to the Western Cwm today to, essentially, practice placing trad gear. We did the various routes on North Wall -- both of us leading them, placing gear, and then the other following & cleaning. These are routes we've both climbed before -- though I did take a fall before I had any gear in on the start of one of the routes. Essentially, a bouldering fall, but without crash pad from a few feet up. I think I'm going to have a bruise on my back -- but I'm ok.
Then Dave led a toughish 5.8 (Mr Toady's Dihedral, on Reaper Wall), which is gear on the lower part, then one bolt for the upper. It was the toughest thing he's ever done on gear. I followed & cleaned it -- fell a couple times doing it, though. (It is probably about as tough as a gym 5.10b/c, but I think with a couple more runs at it, I should be able to get it clean. Then I might even think about leading it, for the red point.)
We then walked over to Cave Wall, where Dave look at Security (a solid 5.10d) and I looked at Neruda (a 5.6, though some think it is tougher.) He tried leading it, but didn't make it -- mostly head stuff, though for his first time ever, he hung on some placed gear. (Though didn't fall on it.) I then led Neruda (hung on gear once, also a newish thing for me), and then finished it. Dave then climbed Security on top-rope. I figure I should be able to get Neruda clean -- a bit of practice, and not doing it at the end of a day.
And the weather was glorious! It was a beautiful day to be outside.
Then Dave led a toughish 5.8 (Mr Toady's Dihedral, on Reaper Wall), which is gear on the lower part, then one bolt for the upper. It was the toughest thing he's ever done on gear. I followed & cleaned it -- fell a couple times doing it, though. (It is probably about as tough as a gym 5.10b/c, but I think with a couple more runs at it, I should be able to get it clean. Then I might even think about leading it, for the red point.)
We then walked over to Cave Wall, where Dave look at Security (a solid 5.10d) and I looked at Neruda (a 5.6, though some think it is tougher.) He tried leading it, but didn't make it -- mostly head stuff, though for his first time ever, he hung on some placed gear. (Though didn't fall on it.) I then led Neruda (hung on gear once, also a newish thing for me), and then finished it. Dave then climbed Security on top-rope. I figure I should be able to get Neruda clean -- a bit of practice, and not doing it at the end of a day.
And the weather was glorious! It was a beautiful day to be outside.
