![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
May. 23rd, 2007
Climbing at Planet Granite
May. 23rd, 2007 02:49 amFound that the person who I had arranged to meet had stood me up, but found someone else to climb with, at least for a few climbs.
Started out with a 5.8, just to warm up, but found it had a few tricky bits on it. Made me think that the ratings at Planet Granite (PG) might be tougher than I'm used to -- but that doesn't seem to be the case. Went to a 5.9 next, flashed that like it was a ladder. Then flashed a 5.10a. I don't flash 5.10a climbs, I struggle up them as they're near the top of my climbing range. The guy I was with said that climb wasn't the easiest 5.10a there, either. Was looking for a 5.10b, but didn't find one with an open rope, so instead picked out a 5.10c that was up one of their long walls. They claim 60', and this looked like. And, overhang almost the whole way, too. Had to hang-dog twice to recover strength and wind, but made it up the whole -- though my forearms were really pumped by the time I finished. There was no single move on the climb that I found difficult, most of the holds were quite positive, it was just long and energy draining. I think, though, that PG's ratings are a bit easier than I'm use to. Either that, or the style of problems they put in their routes I find easy, or maybe I'm going through a break-through in climbing ability. But, I don't think it's the last case.
Still, enjoyed my climbing.
Started out with a 5.8, just to warm up, but found it had a few tricky bits on it. Made me think that the ratings at Planet Granite (PG) might be tougher than I'm used to -- but that doesn't seem to be the case. Went to a 5.9 next, flashed that like it was a ladder. Then flashed a 5.10a. I don't flash 5.10a climbs, I struggle up them as they're near the top of my climbing range. The guy I was with said that climb wasn't the easiest 5.10a there, either. Was looking for a 5.10b, but didn't find one with an open rope, so instead picked out a 5.10c that was up one of their long walls. They claim 60', and this looked like. And, overhang almost the whole way, too. Had to hang-dog twice to recover strength and wind, but made it up the whole -- though my forearms were really pumped by the time I finished. There was no single move on the climb that I found difficult, most of the holds were quite positive, it was just long and energy draining. I think, though, that PG's ratings are a bit easier than I'm use to. Either that, or the style of problems they put in their routes I find easy, or maybe I'm going through a break-through in climbing ability. But, I don't think it's the last case.
Still, enjoyed my climbing.
Belay partner showed up this evening!
May. 23rd, 2007 11:55 pmThe belay partner I contacted for this evening showed up. So, we ended up climbing from just after 8pm until just before 11pm, and I'm feeling wiped. Lots of LONG climbs, and also pushed the difficulty some, too.
Did my first 5.11 -- it was labelled as a 5.11a/b, and while tricky, not super hard. I didn't do it clean or anything -- lots of falling, and trying different things, and I think I did one move on the rope, but I feel with a few more tries working on it, I could get it. But, I also feel that Planet Granite is about a rating level lower than Coyote. For example, my last climb of the day, when I was too tired and falling off another climb, was a long 5.9 -- and I had no problem with it. That when I generally do 5.8s at Coyote.
PG also has a lot of really neat terrain -- their long climbs are just vertical, but a long of changing angles and slopes, making it very interesting. They've also got a wall with a lot of cracks in them, lots of dihedral and arrete climbs, and even one chimney. The chimney was a lot of fun, and I found it a good climb, using far more body than just hands and feet. The crack, though, I found very difficult -- I fell off the 5.9 up that many times. I'm thinking that is something that I just don't have the technique for.
Glad I got out today, but don't think I'll go again tomorrow. I am SO behind on LJ and online stuff right now. I'm not even going to try and catch up right now -- I'm just going to bed. It's midnight here, which is 3am Ottawa time.
Did my first 5.11 -- it was labelled as a 5.11a/b, and while tricky, not super hard. I didn't do it clean or anything -- lots of falling, and trying different things, and I think I did one move on the rope, but I feel with a few more tries working on it, I could get it. But, I also feel that Planet Granite is about a rating level lower than Coyote. For example, my last climb of the day, when I was too tired and falling off another climb, was a long 5.9 -- and I had no problem with it. That when I generally do 5.8s at Coyote.
PG also has a lot of really neat terrain -- their long climbs are just vertical, but a long of changing angles and slopes, making it very interesting. They've also got a wall with a lot of cracks in them, lots of dihedral and arrete climbs, and even one chimney. The chimney was a lot of fun, and I found it a good climb, using far more body than just hands and feet. The crack, though, I found very difficult -- I fell off the 5.9 up that many times. I'm thinking that is something that I just don't have the technique for.
Glad I got out today, but don't think I'll go again tomorrow. I am SO behind on LJ and online stuff right now. I'm not even going to try and catch up right now -- I'm just going to bed. It's midnight here, which is 3am Ottawa time.