Climbing at Montagne D'Argent
Sep. 21st, 2008 09:54 pmI went climbing with a small (5 person) group from the ACC today, and we went to a climbing area near Mont Tremblant called Montagne D'Argent. There was the group organiser (George), as well as the other senior person (John) who was been climbing for 30+ years, me, and two women (Diana and Lubna). I think Lubna tends to boulder stronger than I do, but she seemed less strong/confident on real rock than I am, and Diana was definitely the weakest of the group, though she did struggle up much of what everyone else climbed as well.
I felt like I was climbing quite well today -- which is a nice change. And I got to lead a few routes as well, including a couple of (tough) 5.8 routes. The second 5.8 I led was quite wet at the crux, making it quite a bit more challenging. I did fall at the crux, I think twice, though pretty controlled falls. After I setup the rope, Diana and Lubna climbed it, then John then George. By the time John and George were on it, the crux and much of the tricky stuff was quite dry, and they were commenting on the "great friction" from the rock. Both, though, right after completing the crux shouted down to me "good lead". They also both took a fall on another tricky bit that I did cleanly and without falling. :) This made me feel quite good about my climbing. John also commented on the way out that it was a "stellar lead". :) :)
It was also very nice to feel like I wasn't just "hanging on" in a group like this, climbing all the top-ropes that others set for me, on other people's ropes, using other people's gear. But that I had rope, and draws, and was leading routes and setting up ropes for other people, too. (Though, I also followed the three trad routes that John led.)
Following is, actually, a lot harder than top-roping and I'd say physically more strenuous than leading sport routes, but not nearly as psychologically difficult -- you're in top-rope head space, but just have to do the extra work to remove all the gear as you go up.
I want to go back to Montagne D'Argent -- they actually seem to have a moderate number of moderate difficulty sport routes, as well as some possibility of top-roping and while the drive is longer, the walk-ins are generally pretty reasonable. And, there's lots of crags all fairly close to each other, giving lots of choice of climbs. (And, choice of sun aspect.)
(Actually, everywhere that I took a fall, both John and George also fell -- and they both also fell on stuff that I did clean.)
Yes, I'm very happy with my day of climbing today.
I felt like I was climbing quite well today -- which is a nice change. And I got to lead a few routes as well, including a couple of (tough) 5.8 routes. The second 5.8 I led was quite wet at the crux, making it quite a bit more challenging. I did fall at the crux, I think twice, though pretty controlled falls. After I setup the rope, Diana and Lubna climbed it, then John then George. By the time John and George were on it, the crux and much of the tricky stuff was quite dry, and they were commenting on the "great friction" from the rock. Both, though, right after completing the crux shouted down to me "good lead". They also both took a fall on another tricky bit that I did cleanly and without falling. :) This made me feel quite good about my climbing. John also commented on the way out that it was a "stellar lead". :) :)
It was also very nice to feel like I wasn't just "hanging on" in a group like this, climbing all the top-ropes that others set for me, on other people's ropes, using other people's gear. But that I had rope, and draws, and was leading routes and setting up ropes for other people, too. (Though, I also followed the three trad routes that John led.)
Following is, actually, a lot harder than top-roping and I'd say physically more strenuous than leading sport routes, but not nearly as psychologically difficult -- you're in top-rope head space, but just have to do the extra work to remove all the gear as you go up.
I want to go back to Montagne D'Argent -- they actually seem to have a moderate number of moderate difficulty sport routes, as well as some possibility of top-roping and while the drive is longer, the walk-ins are generally pretty reasonable. And, there's lots of crags all fairly close to each other, giving lots of choice of climbs. (And, choice of sun aspect.)
(Actually, everywhere that I took a fall, both John and George also fell -- and they both also fell on stuff that I did clean.)
Yes, I'm very happy with my day of climbing today.