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Climbing at the Weir
Oct. 5th, 2019 09:49 pmAfter much discussion of many options for this weekend (starting with Rumney, but also including Vermont, the 'Dacks, and many possible plans), Phil and I finally decided on a day of multi-pitching at The Weir/Mont Larose.
We got there around 10:30, which was perfect as the sun was just coming onto Adagio (5.7, 5.6, 5.6, 5.8 trad). Phil lead the whole thing (I've lead it before), and it continues to be an excellent climb.
On the way down the descent gully I noticed (again) a right-facing corner with a crack in it that didn't look too steep. We had no route information, but decided to climb it anyway. It has obviously been climbed -- too clean for not, plus one sawed-off tree and two rusting pitons. But, also, it obviously wasn't climbed frequently as was obvious from the growth of shrubberies, lichen, and the rappel tat at the top that had moss and lichen on it (well, there was one newish piece). I think it went at about 5.6, 5.8 (for the two pitches).
After these, we tag-teamed the first pitch of Black&White (5.9), where I ended up taking 3 lead-falls (on gear) trying to pull a roof before tagging Phil back in. I did end up following the climb clean.
Finally Phil TR-Hang-dogged a (hard!) 5.11a from the same anchor.
He finished that around 6:30, just as the sun was going down, and a definite chill was entering the air.
A good day of climbing, and a good bowl of Poutine on the way home.
We got there around 10:30, which was perfect as the sun was just coming onto Adagio (5.7, 5.6, 5.6, 5.8 trad). Phil lead the whole thing (I've lead it before), and it continues to be an excellent climb.
On the way down the descent gully I noticed (again) a right-facing corner with a crack in it that didn't look too steep. We had no route information, but decided to climb it anyway. It has obviously been climbed -- too clean for not, plus one sawed-off tree and two rusting pitons. But, also, it obviously wasn't climbed frequently as was obvious from the growth of shrubberies, lichen, and the rappel tat at the top that had moss and lichen on it (well, there was one newish piece). I think it went at about 5.6, 5.8 (for the two pitches).
After these, we tag-teamed the first pitch of Black&White (5.9), where I ended up taking 3 lead-falls (on gear) trying to pull a roof before tagging Phil back in. I did end up following the climb clean.
Finally Phil TR-Hang-dogged a (hard!) 5.11a from the same anchor.
He finished that around 6:30, just as the sun was going down, and a definite chill was entering the air.
A good day of climbing, and a good bowl of Poutine on the way home.
