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Some good climbing this weekend.
Aug. 25th, 2013 02:31 pmSaturday I was up to Montagne d'Argent with K8 and Mikhal (first time climbing with him) and we climbed in the Grand Canyon. I was leading most everything (5 of 7 climbs) and leading stuff near the top of my range, mostly. Started with a 5.8 trad route as warm up (a bit ambitious), then TRed a 5.10a from the same anchor. Then I went to lead a hard (by MdA standards) 5.10b sport route (Rav-4), but took a couple falls -- not where I expected to, though. So, red-point still to come. After that, I went after a 5.9 trad route, where it got tricky to figure out how to climb it, so I took a couple falls on gear, before figuring it out. Then a 5.10b (Souris Chauve) sport route, where I should have had it clean, but made a stupid careless mistake at one point and took a fall. My last lead was another trad route, at 5.9+, which went up a steep wide (big hands to fists) crack, then finished with some of the thin technical slab which most Grand Canyon routes finish with - happily I got this clean, giving me my second on-sight for the day (the 5.8 warm up was the other). Then Mikhal lead a 5.9 sport/mixed route, that I followed clean.
Today, I am flying to Kitchener-Waterloo for a work trip, so only had the morning available, so Flo and I went up to Down Under to work on our projects -- his is El Ninjo 5.12a, while mine is Sausages 5.10c. After 3-4 tries on the opening (crux) sequence to get to the 2nd bolt, I finally got that section (lowering to the ground each time, though the lower was generally only a few inches to a couple feet, since the falls on the first bolt did leave me quite low) and then sent the rest of it clean -- though taking rests carefully along the way. It is a very overhanging route for its grade.
Now, the goal is to lead something in the 5.10d range -- candidates include Gabby at Down Under and Security at the Western Cwm.
Today, I am flying to Kitchener-Waterloo for a work trip, so only had the morning available, so Flo and I went up to Down Under to work on our projects -- his is El Ninjo 5.12a, while mine is Sausages 5.10c. After 3-4 tries on the opening (crux) sequence to get to the 2nd bolt, I finally got that section (lowering to the ground each time, though the lower was generally only a few inches to a couple feet, since the falls on the first bolt did leave me quite low) and then sent the rest of it clean -- though taking rests carefully along the way. It is a very overhanging route for its grade.
Now, the goal is to lead something in the 5.10d range -- candidates include Gabby at Down Under and Security at the Western Cwm.
