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First trad fall
Aug. 1st, 2010 11:37 amYesterday at Montagne D'Argent I took my first fall on gear. That is, rather than falling on a bolt (sport) or falling on a top-rope, I actually fell and had a piece of gear that I had place to protect my climb actually catch the fall and protect my climb.
I was leading M&M (on the M&M wall). It is a 25m climb, where most of the pitch (after a small easy apron) is a gently left-leaning 5.8 finger to hand crack, with very little for the feet -- good friction on less than vertical terrain, but not much in the way of stances for rest or placing gear. I placed a nut from the stance at the top of the apron, where the real climbing starts, climbed to where that nut was about at knee level, and had the nut pop out at that point. I quickly placed a cam (Metolios #5) at about shoulder level, and a nut just underneath it to back it up, then resumed climbing. I got to about the point where my feet were at the cam, lost footing, recovered, then lost my footing and fell onto the cam. I think it was probably about a 7-8' fall. The cam held fine. I rested a couple seconds, then finished the climb (with a couple further rests on gear, but no further falls.)
Despite two things that should have thrown my focus, my lead-head off (the popped gear -- and it being my only piece popping, then the fall on gear), I led the rest of the route without feeling any more nervous or bothered about being on lead than I normally do. After this route, I went on to lead a similar (though less strenous, due to being a bit shorter and having a lot more good stances for rests & placing gear) route nearby, on gear, and cleanly.
I am sad I didn't get a clean climb up M&M -- leading it (hopefully clean) was one of my goals for the day at Montagne D'Argent -- but I'm glad I took that fall on gear, without problems, as it has left me a lot less scared/spooked about the idea of falling on gear. I think it has really helped my confidence for leading.
I was leading M&M (on the M&M wall). It is a 25m climb, where most of the pitch (after a small easy apron) is a gently left-leaning 5.8 finger to hand crack, with very little for the feet -- good friction on less than vertical terrain, but not much in the way of stances for rest or placing gear. I placed a nut from the stance at the top of the apron, where the real climbing starts, climbed to where that nut was about at knee level, and had the nut pop out at that point. I quickly placed a cam (Metolios #5) at about shoulder level, and a nut just underneath it to back it up, then resumed climbing. I got to about the point where my feet were at the cam, lost footing, recovered, then lost my footing and fell onto the cam. I think it was probably about a 7-8' fall. The cam held fine. I rested a couple seconds, then finished the climb (with a couple further rests on gear, but no further falls.)
Despite two things that should have thrown my focus, my lead-head off (the popped gear -- and it being my only piece popping, then the fall on gear), I led the rest of the route without feeling any more nervous or bothered about being on lead than I normally do. After this route, I went on to lead a similar (though less strenous, due to being a bit shorter and having a lot more good stances for rests & placing gear) route nearby, on gear, and cleanly.
I am sad I didn't get a clean climb up M&M -- leading it (hopefully clean) was one of my goals for the day at Montagne D'Argent -- but I'm glad I took that fall on gear, without problems, as it has left me a lot less scared/spooked about the idea of falling on gear. I think it has really helped my confidence for leading.
